British author Victoria Hislop has visited around 50 Greek islands, but her fascination with Greece shows no sign of slowing down.
For Hislop, the islands are far more than summer holiday destinations. Each has its own character, traditions, history and landscape, and she believes the best time to discover them is often after the crowds of August have disappeared.
Speaking to the Daily Mail, Hislop explains why she particularly loves visiting Greece in September and October, when the weather remains warm, the sea is still inviting and the islands take on a quieter rhythm.
She even suggests that swimming can remain enjoyable in some parts of Greece until the end of November.
“Every Greek island is like a small country”
Hislop sees the Greek islands as individual worlds rather than simply parts of larger geographical groups such as the Cyclades, Sporades or Dodecanese.
Their differences can be remarkably pronounced.
Each island has developed its own customs, dances, food, flora, fauna, archaeological heritage, mythology, geology and, in some cases, dialect.
Centuries of foreign rule have also left distinct cultural traces. Italian, French, British and Ottoman influences can still be found across different islands.
For Hislop, discovering them is like opening a treasure chest filled with colourful gems.
Her fascination began decades ago, when she travelled around Greece by boat in the 1970s.
She remembers sleeping on ships or beaches and surviving largely on watermelon, tomatoes and bread. Even today, she says the experience of travelling by Greek ferry can transport her back in time.
The plastic seats, cheese toast, strong coffee, diesel fumes and doughnuts remain part of the sensory experience.
And although many islands now have airports, Hislop believes arriving by boat retains something special. There is the moment the anchor drops, passengers disembark and others wait to board, creating a scene that feels unmistakably Greek.
Ithaca: The island of Odysseus
Ithaca sits at the top of Hislop’s list.
The Ionian island has been associated with Homer’s Odysseus for centuries, and Hislop says she understood the legendary hero’s desire to return when she first approached the island by boat.
She describes Ithaca as almost painfully beautiful, with wooded hills descending towards the sea, a sheltered natural harbour and exceptionally clear water.
The small houses, intimate atmosphere, yachts and traditional tavernas add to its appeal.
During one visit, Hislop bought a ring from a boutique engraved with a line from Greek poet Giorgos Seferis: “The secrets of the sea are forgotten on the shores.”
Kefalonia: Following in the footsteps of Captain Corelli
Neighbouring Kefalonia offers a very different experience.
Hislop connects the island with British author Louis de Bernières and his novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, which had recently been published when she first visited.
She says the book helped her understand more about Greece during the Second World War and the country’s experience under occupation.
Tourism has since transformed the lives of many island residents and contributed to higher living standards.
Hislop singles out Myrtos Beach and the island’s picturesque villages, many decorated with bougainvillea.
She is particularly fond of Assos, the small harbour village surrounded by lush hills and turquoise water.
Chios: Mastic, medieval villages and history
Chios holds a particularly important place in Hislop’s relationship with Greece.
The eastern Aegean island provided inspiration for her new novel, The Wine-Dark Sea, and she highlights its distinctive mastic production.
The aromatic resin, produced from mastic trees in southern Chios, has been harvested on the island for centuries.
Hislop is also fascinated by Chios’ medieval villages and grand mansions associated with prominent Greek shipping families.
For her, the island combines dramatic landscapes with an equally dramatic history.
Chios is also traditionally associated with Homer, with local tradition claiming that the ancient poet was born on the island.
Oinousses: A tiny island with a maritime soul
Just off Chios, the small island of Oinousses has left a lasting impression on Hislop.
With a long maritime tradition, Oinousses is home to a Merchant Marine Academy and a museum dedicated to naval history.
She recalls arriving by boat and being greeted by the distinctive mermaid statue standing on a rock near the harbour.
The island’s mayor even arranged for the ship’s siren to sound as she departed.
With only a few hundred permanent residents and relatively limited facilities, Oinousses offers the kind of isolation Hislop finds irresistible.
She says she could easily imagine staying there long enough to write an entire novel.
Ikaria: An island that takes life slowly
Ikaria is famous for its relaxed pace of life and its reputation as one of the world’s so called Blue Zones, areas associated with unusually high longevity.
Hislop says she was initially sceptical, but was struck by seeing people in their eighties and nineties remaining active and energetic.
What impressed her most was the island’s unhurried lifestyle.
Shops open later in the morning, people take their time and the island’s thermal springs add another dimension to the experience.
Hislop also recalls the mythology surrounding the island’s name and the story of Icarus, whose fall is traditionally associated with the island.
Tinos: Marble, art and traditional villages
On Tinos, Hislop is captivated by marble.
The material appears throughout the island, from doorways and houses to elaborate fountains, reflecting Tinos’ long tradition of marble craftsmanship.
The island is also the birthplace of celebrated Greek sculptor Giannoulis Chalepas and has an important sculpture tradition.
Hislop recommends exploring the island’s old paths, particularly during the quieter autumn months, as well as discovering its traditional dovecotes.
She also praises the simple tavernas serving fresh fish.
One of her favourites is in the village of Agapi, a name she notes could hardly be more charming.
Andros: Grand mansions and modern art
Andros appeals to Hislop for its elegant mansions, many of which were built by wealthy Greek shipping families during the 20th century.
She highlights Micra Anglia, a boutique hotel housed in a former shipping family residence.
The island’s cultural appeal extends to the Museum of Contemporary Art, which features works by Greek artist Michalis Tombros alongside works by international artists including Rodin, Picasso, Matisse and Toulouse-Lautrec.
Andros is also well suited to walkers, with an extensive network of marked trails crossing the island.
Milos: A landscape from another world
Hislop describes Milos simply as “dramatic”.
Its volcanic origins have created extraordinary geological formations, with the island’s landscape appearing almost otherworldly in places.
Sarakiniko is the most famous example, where brilliant white rock meets turquoise water.
But Hislop points out that Milos has far more to offer than its spectacular beaches, with dozens of other swimming spots and a strong cultural identity.
The island is also where the famous Venus de Milo was discovered. The original statue is now housed at the Louvre in Paris, while a local museum displays a replica alongside ancient artefacts.
Kimolos: Like having a private island
A short boat ride from Milos, Kimolos gives Hislop an entirely different feeling.
She describes it as even more picturesque and says its small scale creates the impression of having a private island.
Near the port, she highlights a tiny museum that can accommodate only two visitors at a time.
Its collection of tools and household objects provides a glimpse into everyday life on the island in earlier centuries.
Hislop believes Kimolos is the kind of place where a person could live relatively simply and independently.
She even jokes that if she ever decided to become a hermit, Kimolos would be her choice.
Naxos: Ancient monuments and exceptional cheese
On Naxos, Hislop’s attention is immediately drawn to the Portara, the monumental gateway associated with the ancient Temple of Apollo.
More than 2,500 years old, the enormous marble structure provides a striking reminder of the scale of ancient Greek architecture.
She is equally enthusiastic about Naxos cheese, which she describes as the best in the world and compares with a creamier version of Parmesan.
The island also contains two enormous unfinished kouroi, ancient marble statues abandoned after cracks appeared in the stone.
In Chora, Hislop recommends the museum inside the old castle, where visitors can see simple figurines dating back around 5,000 years.
Their original purpose remains uncertain, but their distinctive forms influenced modern artists including Picasso and Alberto Giacometti.
Karpathos: Isolation and Italian influence
Hislop says she tries to undertake a small Greek “odyssey” every summer, deliberately seeking out destinations that are harder to reach.
Karpathos in the Dodecanese fits that description.
With fewer ferry connections and flights linking the island with eastern Crete, its relative isolation has helped preserve many local traditions.
The landscape is rugged, with villages perched high above the Aegean and dramatic views stretching across the sea.
Karpathos also carries a distinctive Italian historical influence. The island came under Italian control in the early 20th century after earlier periods of foreign rule, leaving cultural traces that remain visible today.
Hislop notes that some residents speak Italian fluently and highlights a traditional dish of handmade pasta served with caramelised onions and grated sheep’s cheese.
Why Hislop chooses autumn
For Hislop, the Greek islands are not defined by August.
September and October offer something she values even more: space.
The crowds thin, the heat becomes less intense and the sea remains warm enough for swimming.
It is also a season when the islands’ everyday character becomes easier to appreciate.
A quiet harbour, a meal in a village taverna, an encounter with a local resident or even an unexpected moment by the sea can become the memory that defines a trip.
After visiting around 50 Greek islands, Hislop’s fascination appears to be less about ticking destinations off a list and more about discovering the individual personality of each one.
And with so many islands still left to explore, her Greek island odyssey is clearly far from over.
First published on Greek City Times.